Retail beef cuts

Barbecued cowboy steaks

Those with Texas-size appetites will require an entire steak; for most others — even the heartiest of meat lovers — half of one of these rib steaks is probably plenty.

Servings: Makes 4 to 8 servings.


Ingredients:
1 tablespoon coarse kosher salt
1 teaspoon Hungarian sweet paprika
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
1 teaspoon dried ground thyme
1 teaspoon finely ground coffee beans
4 1 1/4- to 1 1/2-inch-thick bone-in beef rib steaks (each weighing 12 to 16 ounces)

1 2.2-pound bag instant-light mesquite chunks
1 cup mesquite or hickory wood smoke chips, soaked in cold water at least 30 minutes

Preparation:
Mix first 6 ingredients in small bowl. Sprinkle spice rub over both sides of steaks, pressing to adhere. Let steaks stand at room temperature 1 hour.

Spread entire bag of instant-light mesquite chunks over 2/3 of bottom rack and prepare barbecue (medium-high heat). Grill steaks over mesquite until brown on both sides, about 2 minutes per side. Remove steaks from grill. Let mesquite chunks burn until ash is gray. Drain wood chips; scatter over mesquite. Return steaks to cooler part of grill (not over mesquite). Cover barbecue with lid; grill steaks to desired doneness, about 10 minutes for medium-rare. Let steaks rest 5 minutes before serving.

Beef Tenderloin with smoked-paprika mayonnaises

Lovers of beef and chorizo can have their steak and eat it, too: Here, a garlic, cumin, and smoked-paprika rub on rare roast beef has the alluring smoky meatiness you've always associated with the richly flavored sausage. The same seasonings, plus some drippings from the meat, transform ordinary store-bought mayonnaise into a simply spectacular accompaniment.

Active time: 25 min Start to finish: 1 1/4 hr
Servings: Makes 8 to 12 servings

Ingredients:
For beef:
2 large garlic cloves
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 (3 1/2- to 4-pound) trimmed beef tenderloin roast, tied

For mayonnaise:
1 cup mayonnaise
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
2 tablespoons meat juices from beef, or to taste

Preparation:
Roast tenderloin:
Preheat oven to 500°F with rack in middle.

Mince and mash garlic to a paste with 1 1/4 teaspoon salt. Transfer to a small bowl and stir in paprika, cumin, oil, and 1 teaspoon pepper.

Pat tenderloin dry, then rub garlic mixture all over it. Roast in a roasting pan until an instant-read thermometer inserted diagonally 2 inches into center of meat registers 120°F, 25 to 35 minutes for medium-rare.

Transfer to a platter along with any pan juices and cool, loosely covered with foil, 30 minutes to 1 hour. (Internal temperature will rise to about 130°F as it rests.)

Make mayonnaise:
Stir together mayonnaise, paprika, cumin, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Stir in meat juices and salt to taste.

To serve: Cut meat into thick slices. Serve warm or at room temperature, with smoked-paprika mayonnaise.

Cooks' note: Smoked-paprika mayonnaise keeps, chilled, 2 weeks.

Smoke beef...slurrppp